By Hayley Clucas
You’d be forgiven for thinking underwear is merely a thing of practicality; after all, it does serve a purpose. However, at Scrumpies of Mayfair, we believe that a pair of knickers can be so much more; they can showcase your personality, set the mood and even enhance your confidence.
A pair of Scrumpies’ knickers is designed to make the wearer look and feel beautiful, with individual styles and carefully chosen fabrics and colours. With that in mind, we asked our Lead Designer, Ruan Kitchener, what really goes into designing and creating Scrumpies’ knickers.
Where do you find the inspiration for new styles?
As you know each Scrumpies’ knicker is named after a specific variety of apple and each name is primarily the inspiration for the knicker itself. Starting from a long list, we pick an assortment of names that can offer diversity in terms of potential shapes and colour, while also taking into account any names that can particularly inspire and start from there.
The name itself is really key and opens up the gateway to the research process via mood boards & colour charts. 80% of the time, the design comes to mind almost half formed and it's the experimentation and design development utilising fabrics and playing with trims that really moulds it into becoming its own solid creation.
How do you decide on colours and fabrics?
Our design team attends fabric trade shows both within the UK and abroad, collecting swatches and as many sample cards as possible for a wide variety of possibilities. The fabrics need to speak to me and tell me what it wants to do. There is no point trying to force a fabric into something it doesn't want to do, you have to look at it's qualities, its attributes - the way it moves, flows and feels and typically with lingerie: the level of stretch needed for fitting the contours of a woman's body.
Typically fabrics come in a small select range of colours and from there we see whether the pieces of the puzzle begin to slot together; occasionally custom colours can be created but this is usually only for trims. We experiment in a variety of colour ways and each design typically has on average, about 30 variations, from start to finish. We like to explore our options as much as possible before settling on the best design.
How does the range of knickers transform from an idea into a tangible product?
After the design process is completed, our design team put together flat drawings and technical packages, explaining how they want the finished knicker to be made, everything from the type of seams, the finishings of hems and the applications of trims and labels. Sampling fabrics are purchased and together everything is handed over to our product development team, who pattern cut and toile each style based on the technical package.
Several fittings are held, usually 3 per collection, where we try everything on a range of different sized women to ensure everything fits and feels comfortable for everyone. With the shift in fashion attitudes towards inclusivity and body positivity, we felt strongly we should be creating lingerie for every shape and size, not purely designing for tiny supermodels. Luxury lingerie is for everyone! Once we're happy with everything we then proceed to mass manufacturing with our factories based in Italy.
How do Scrumpies’ knickers differ from other lingerie brands?
We've really strived to focus more on quality rather than quantity, and create knickers that are as bright, bold and colourful as the woman who wears them. We've made a conscious effort to reduce the number of styles we launch each year and instead focus on ensuring each knicker is made using quality fabrics and trims so it's truly worth the customer’s money - which is in stark contrast to the typical fast-fashion attitude most other lingerie brands utilise, churning out collection after collection.
Each pair of Scrumpies of Mayfair are like mini works of art, a true collector’s piece. We want them to be loved by the wearer as much as we do, from the pure silk linings to the tiny ribbon loops for our gold charms; every detail is carefully considered and it's the love and attention to detail we pour into every aspect that makes them truly unique.
What’s next for Scrumpies of Mayfair?
We have a lot of exciting plans coming up for the next year, so make sure you're following our social media handles (@scrumpiesldn) or our newsletters for all the latest news and information.
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